Insider’s Guide to Oxford

What makes Oxford such a special place to live?
The first things you think about when someone says “Oxford” are the spires, the colleges and all that history. The atmosphere that the university creates is special – the students bring a buzz to the place – and you have the advantage of being on the Thames. Whether you’re riding your bike or wandering around the cobbled streets, there’s always something to enjoy. But you’re also just a few minutes from open countryside, and half an hour from the Cotswolds.

Who’s moving to Oxford these days?
Schools are a huge driver for people coming to the city: north Oxford has the Dragon prep, Teddies (St Edward’s) and Oxford High, then there’s Magdalen College School in the city centre. There’s been huge investment in research and development and life sciences of late – one of the Covid vaccines was created in Oxford – and that’s bringing in international buyers.

What kind of houses can you find in the city?
North Oxford is an incredibly popular residential area with leafy avenues and big townhouses, semis and large detached houses. In that part of town you’re looking at about £1,000 per sq ft, and you’ll pay up to £10 million for the best properties. We have a lot of people coming from London – they get more bang for their buck here. East Oxford has a trendier, studenty vibe, Summertown has excellent shops and restaurants, and Jericho is usually described as cool and hip.

Which are your favourite pubs and restaurants in Oxford?
Gees is an excellent Mediterranean restaurant in north Oxford, and there’s a great little pizza place in Summertown called Mamma Mia – both are popular with parents who come up at the end of term. The Turf Tavern, by the medieval city walls, started serving ales in 1381 and reportedly has a resident ghost called Rosie, who’s waiting for her lover to return.

The Old Bookbinders is an atmospheric 19th-century alehouse in Jericho with a French-influenced menu, and the Rose and Crown in north Oxford has jazz at the weekends. Finally, The Vaults on Radcliffe Square is a great café in the heart of the city, and for the best fry-up, head to Brown’s, an Oxford institution in the Covered Market. 

Where would you go shopping?
For a unique Oxford experience, wander around the Covered Market, which is celebrating its 250th anniversary this year. It’s a great place for people-watching: just soak up the atmosphere and have a bite to eat. Take a look at the print shops selling pictures of old Oxford, and Gulp Fiction is a super bookstore where you can have coffee and browse. There’s a wonderful ice cream place called iScream, and for fun gifts and cards, Next to Nothing is excellent. The market opens in the evening on Thursday, Friday and Saturday, too.

Is Oxford a sporty city?
Obviously, punting is huge, and every Saturday morning in the beautiful University Parks there’s a parkrun that’s open to everyone: it’s well attended, a real mix of town and gown. You can walk along the Thames, where you’ll see the rowers out, or go to the Parks to watch Oxford playing cricket in the summer. On a Saturday, some of the students play Quidditch – the sport from the Harry Potter series –  running around with a broomstick stuck between their legs. It’s hilariously Oxford. 

What about trips to the countryside?
Port Meadow is a huge wetland north of the city centre, within walking and cycling distance – it’s bordered by the Thames and there’s wild swimming in summer. That way you’re heading towards Wolvercote, where there’s a lovely pub on the river called the Trout. It’s easy to get to the Cotswolds, too – Burford, which is very picturesque, is about 35 minutes away.

What’s the single best thing about Oxford?
For me, it’s the sheer beauty of the place. You drive into St Giles and immediately know you’ve arrived somewhere special. I’m amazed by the number of people who go to school in Oxford, move away and then come back because they love it so much. 

Portfolio recommends…
For lunch or afternoon tea with views of Oxford’s dreaming spires, there’s no better place than the rooftop restaurant at the Ashmolean Museum. Pompette in Summertown serves refined French cuisine in a smart brasserie setting, and Arbequina, west of the city centre, rustles up the tastiest tapas in town – be sure to try the tortilla. Oxford is brimming with historic pubs, from the Bear, established in 1242, to the King’s Arms, a student haunt that claims to be “the brainiest pub in Britain”. Trading since 1879, Blackwell’s is one of the most famous bookshops in the country, with a host of rare first editions, while Objects of Use is a hardware store with a difference: its selection of household tools has been conscientiously sourced from around the globe. Finally, a 20-minute drive from the city is the two-Michelin-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons – unbeatable for a special occasion.

CHARLES ELSMORE-WICKENS
HEAD OF RESIDENTIAL, COTSWOLD AND CHILTERN REGION
CEWickens@savills.com