The Microhood: Clerkenwell

What’s it got that we love?
A picturesque corner of central London, Clerkenwell is known by the popular sobriquet of the “secret village”. Close to the City and the West End, and arranged down the old valley of the River Fleet, it has an astonishing history of nunneries, rookeries, spas, paupers and princes. Its squares and alleys pulse with the thrill of discovery: this is one of the finest bits of London to walk through, and is often described as “Dickensian” – aptly so, as the author used Clerkenwell as a location in Little Dorrit.

Stuck in aspic it ain’t, though. With Farringdon on the Elizabeth line and the Eurostar close by at St Pancras station, Clerkenwell has quietly become one of the best-connected places in London. “We’re only two stops from Paris,” says Sharon Ament, director of the Museum of London – which is soon to move to West Smithfield. The truth is that Clerkenwell is no longer either “secret” or a “village”, but a destination – and all the better for it. Coffee up at the charming Clerkenwell Kiosk and start exploring.

How’s the shopping?
This is no retail hub like near neighbour Covent Garden. The restoration of Smithfield Market may yet draw in the multiples, but for now Clerkenwell hosts a charming mix of speciality stores and services.

Once in the centre of London’s Italian community, Terroni of Clerkenwell is the place to chug a macchiato and replenish your supplies of Parmigiano Reggiano. Hatton Garden is diversifying, but remains the centre of London’s jewellery trade – see also the Goldsmiths’ Centre for upcoming stars and EC One jewellers in Exmouth Market, a cool drag that’s home to the flower and gift shop Botanique Workshop. Clerkenwell is a noted centre for design and architecture, with the Magma bookshop in pole position. MagCulture, a shop devoted to magazines, is another gem. Clerkenwell is also London’s watch centre: you’ll find old masters of the horological arts here, alongside top food and wine at the Quality Chop House and art supplies at Stuart R Stevenson. International Magic is the last retail magic shop left in London. Cherish it while you can.

Hang out at…
For a treat, go to the Sessions Arts Club, a restaurant that doubles as an “art and performance space”. There’s even a heated infinity pool in the rooftop garden. The airy Clerkenwell Kitchen serves delicious breakfasts and lunches, and Fidelio on Clerkenwell Road is a cafe and restaurant offering live classical music.

Remember, Clerkenwell is not just full of places to eat: it’s a laboratory for restaurants. St John, which pioneered “nose to tail” dining, is almost 30 years old. Moro, with its popular Iberian-Moorish flavours, is only a few years younger, while the term “gastropub” was coined for the Eagle on Farringdon Road. In summer, sit in the open spaces of Clerkenwell Green (a radical meeting point that’s being refurbished), or go to Sadler’s Wells, London’s centre for dance.

Don’t forget the fine pubs, which draw drinkers from across London. The Holy Tavern (previously the Jerusalem) attests to an ecclesiastical past; Ye Olde Mitre, off Hatton Garden, steps wonkily up to its quaint name; and the Sekforde is a model refit of an end-of-terrace tavern. You are spoilt for choice.

Where to buy?
Squares such as Wilmington, Myddelton, Granville, Northampton and Lloyd are pinnacles of 19th-century residential architecture – and in demand as movie sets. The Lloyd Baker Estate, with roomy villas arranged up the hill to glorious Amwell Street, is a honeypot, while the warehouses of St John Street and its environs were pioneers of loft living. South of Smithfield is Barts Square, where luxury new-builds sit close to the astonishing church of Great St Barts. Look hard – something will always turn up in this place of discovery.

Your Little Black Book
Museum of London; Clerkenwell Kiosk; Smithfield Market; Terroni of Clerkenwell; Hatton Garden; Goldsmiths’ Centre; EC One; Botanique Workshop; Magma; MagCulture; Quality Chop House; Stuart R Stevenson; International Magic; Sessions Arts Club; Clerkenwell Kitchen; Fidelio; St John; Moro; Eagle; Sadler’s Wells; Holy Tavern; Ye Olde Mitre; Sekforde; Barts Square; Great St Barts; Brutto; Luca; Bouchon Racine

Pictures from top: the lights of Exmouth Market at night (Alamy); the Goldsmiths’ Centre (© Morley von Sternberg); a hive of activity at Moro; details of the wrought-iron beams in Smithfield Market (Getty)