Insider’s Guide to Singapore

For a country measuring barely 725 square kilometres, Singapore punches well above its weight. A bustling metropolis with a muscular economy and a first-rate banking system, this Southeast Asian economic tiger is one of the wealthiest nations in the world. So it’s little wonder that it is also one of the most popular places to live in the region – and that its prime properties are in high demand. 

What makes Singapore so special?
For starters, it’s a small island. It takes about 45 minutes to get from one end to the other by car. Everything is concentrated, so you never have to travel far to get anywhere. We’re regarded as the Switzerland of Asia by regional neighbours such as China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Korea and Vietnam, so there’s a lot of wealth creation here.

Which are the neighbourhoods worth checking out?
Orchard Road, Tanglin and Holland Village are where you’ll find a lot of upscale condominiums, private members’ clubs and smart gyms. The living spaces here tend to be larger – upwards of 230 square metres – compared to the local market, where it’s more like 110 square metres.

What about shopping areas?
Orchard Road is the main retail strip, with fantastic shopping. Within just one city block, you’ll find glitzy malls such as Ion Orchard, Ngee Ann City, Paragon and Mandarin Gallery. All the big brands are here, from Gucci to Cartier, but you’ll also find interesting indie labels such as Ethan K, In Good Company for casual-chic clothes and Bynd Artisan for leather-bound stationery. A couple of miles west in Dempsey, former colonial military barracks have been converted into wonderful restaurants and boutiques, including Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar, and Rei Kawakubo’s Dover Street Market. It’s convenient for the Central Business District, which is no more than 10 minutes’ drive, and there’s a direct underground line.

Anywhere else you’d recommend?
I’m excited about Nassim Road, which is just off Orchard Road. Lined with low-rise condominiums and grand period bungalows with sprawling gardens, it feels like a world apart thanks to its broad, leafy streets. The who’s who of Singapore have homes here. Nassim Road is also within easy walking distance of the Singapore Botanic Gardens – the only tropical garden designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site.

What is there to do from a cultural perspective?
All the main museums are near each other in the City Hall neighbourhood. You’ve got the National Gallery Singapore – home to the world’s largest collection of modern Southeast Asian art – housed in the old Supreme Court and City Hall buildings. The Asian Civilisations Museum is next door, then there’s the Peranakan Museum, which has just had a top-to-toe renovation, and the National Museum of Singapore, dedicated to the art, culture and history of the country.

And when you’re feeling energetic?
You can run along the paths that meander through the tropical forest of the Singapore Botanic Gardens or join one of the morning yoga and qigong classes that are held on its meadows. Also popular are the trails around the vast Gardens by the Bay, home to the famous Flower Dome and Cloud Forest. If you’re a cyclist or a rollerblader, the Park Connector Network takes you on a fantastic scenic tour of Singapore’s parks, reservoirs and nature trails. And in September you can catch the Singapore Grand Prix.

Portfolio recommends…
Mott 32 is a delight, as much for its Shanghai-noir interiors of dark woods and mood lighting as for its menu of roast meats, steamed fish and noodles. Head up to the 51st floor of the CapitaSpring biophilic skyscraper for sensational panoramic views of Singapore and neighbouring Malaysia and Indonesia. Or visit the Stolen Atelier, where the designer Elyn Wong has won fans with her sculpted backless dresses. The annual collection is small and coveted, as are appointments at her Orchard Road address.

Pictures from top: Gardens by the Bay (unsplash) and Marcus Loo; cycling outside the Cloud Forest and Flower Dome (Alamy); the infinity pool at Marina Bay Sands (Alamy); Orchard Road (Getty); and Dragonfly Lake (Alamy)