Insider’s Guide to Val d’Isère, France

What makes Val d’Isère so special?
Val d’Isère is one of Europe’s few ski resorts at an altitude of 1,850 metres. We tend to have long seasons, from the end of November to the beginning of May, and we sometimes even get to ski in summer! It’s a proper skiers’ resort. We’ve got 170km of pistes, plus another 130km in Tignes. Plus, we’re right next door to Italy, and five hours from the Mediterranean, so it’s easy to drive down there for the weekend.

Where can you find the best properties?
The resort’s satellite hamlets – La Daille, Le Châtelard and Le Laisinant – all have something special to offer. Le Fornet has some beautiful chalets but it’s more remote, with a totally different vibe from the main town. Le Crêt arguably has the largest, most impressive chalets, while Le Joseray and La Légettaz have more flats and apartments. In the centre of town, it’s mostly apartments, too, all very close to the pistes. In the centre of Val d’Isère there’s not much more land left to build on, so the two big developments that are currently under way will be in high demand. 

Who lives in Val d’Isère?
A lot of French people are buying property here at the moment, but historically there have always been many Dutch, Belgian and British homeowners – most of whom usually come for the winter. 

What happens in summer?
I love the contrast here between the hustle and bustle of the ski season and the tranquillity of summertime. The summer season runs from the end of June until the beginning of September, and it’s all about sport: riding, tennis, golf, swimming, archery, mountain biking – you name it. The Col de l’Iseran attracts thousands of cyclists every year and, of course, the Tour de France passes through here. The lake in nearby Tignes offers all kinds of water sports. My favourite thing to do in summer is to take the children on a picnic walk and explore the Vanoise National Park. Needless to say, the hiking around here is exceptional. Some of the lakes – Lac de la Sassière and Lac de l’Ouillette, in particular – are stunning, and I love the traditional hamlets of Le Monal in Sainte Foy and L’Écot in Bonneval-sur-Arc.

Where is your favourite place to ski?
I mostly stick to Val d’Isère: Face de Bellevarde, the Olympic downhill slope, is my favourite run. Le Plan de Solaise is another of my go-tos, or for something a little gentler, a warm-up, perhaps, I’d choose the Grand Pré.

And for après-ski?
If you’re looking for somewhere super-civilised, I would go to the Lounge Bar at Avenue Lodge for cheese and oysters. The bar at Le Blizzard is also lovely – it has a roaring log fire. Bananas is a bit more lively, and if you want to go all out, Dick’s Tea Bar is an institution here. You’ll get a real late-night experience – but don’t expect to catch the first lift the next morning. 

Which are your favourite restaurants?
One little place I would recommend, which does delicious Asian food and is great for lunch and supper, is G’s Pot in Tignes. Le Président in Val’s Galerie des Cimes does amazing burgers, or, if you’re looking for something more upmarket, I would suggest La Fruitière, with its amazing views, or Poya – it’s a refuge for bons vivants. Bambou is another cosy Asian eatery that’s a great alternative to traditional Savoyard fare.

What does the resort offer non-skiers?
All sorts! You can go ice skating, swimming, to the cinema – and there’s plenty of shopping to be done, provided you’re in the market for skiwear. In La Maison de Val, the town’s cultural centre, there’s the Musée Val Histoire, which has ever-changing exhibitions that offer fascinating insights into the history of the resort. Otherwise, the circuit of the seven chapels is a popular guided tour that goes from Le Fornet to La Daille.

And what about schools?
There’s Apex2100 in Tignes, which is a world-class ski racing academy that teaches an academic curriculum, run by Brits, with some international students, too. It takes children from nine years old. There are primary schools in Val and Tignes, but you have to go down to Bourg-Saint-Maurice, a 40-minute drive, for any schooling after the age of 11. 

Portfolio recommends…
Even after a hearty breakfast, it’s not unusual to develop an appetite by 11am up on the mountain – so head for Gigi at Le Refuge de Solaise. Here you’ll find not only the best views of the valley, but possibly the best hot chocolate of your life. Save room for lunch, as the tartiflette at Le Signal, another of Val’s best mountain restaurants, is just as good. To ease weary limbs, book an après-ski massage at the Spa by Clarins in Le Blizzard hotel (which also offers excellent private yoga classes). And for dinner, it has to be Ski Gallery & Fondue Factory, a museum/restaurant boasting a remarkable collection of vintage skis and equipment from the past 120 years – as well as some of the best melted cheese the Alps have to offer.

ALEXANDRA JUBB,
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, SAVILLS VAL D’ISÈRE
alexandra.jubb@savills.com 

Pictures from top: Alexandra Jubb, and Val d’Isère at sunset (Alamy); Gigi at Le Refuge de Solaise; the lake in Tignes (unsplash); the Lounge Bar at Avenue Lodge; and Vanoise National Park in the summertime (Alamy)