Insider’s guide to Florence

What makes Florence such a great place to live?
La vita è bella in Florence. It’s one of the most atmospheric cities in the world, particularly if you love art and culture – Michelangelo, Leonardo, Botticelli and Brunelleschi were all here. Wherever you look, there’s something beautiful to see. And it’s eminently liveable. Most traffic is banned from the centro storico, you’re surrounded by a melting pot of people from all over the world, and connectivity is excellent. In two hours, you can be in Rome or Milan, skiing in the mountains at Abetone or enjoying the beaches of Versilia. And the international airport has great links to the rest of Europe. 

Which are the best areas to live in?
Manifattura Tabacchi is a beautiful place for international buyers. It’s a tobacco factory, built in the 1930s, that has been renovated to form industrial-style apartments around a creative hub. There’s a fashion school here, Polimoda, as well as ateliers, cultural spaces, offices and even a theatre. In the centro storico, the best addresses are Lungarno, by the river, or Via de’ Tornabuoni, for an apartment in a historic palazzo.

Oltrarno, on the opposite bank of the Arno, is one of my favourite places – it’s a lovely mix of residents, local and international. For a villa with gardens, Bellosguardo and Pian dei Giullari are sought-after areas – you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in the depths of the countryside, but you’re moments from the city centre. And a little further out, Fiesole and Impruneta are delightful spots. 

Who’s buying property in Florence?
Most of our buyers are international: mainly American, British and French. Many of them are looking for a second home. But some are moving here for financial reasons such as the flat tax on the overseas income of new residents. There are also investors purchasing apartments for short-term lets – it makes business sense, with 4.5 million tourists visiting Florence every year. Our foreign clients include those with an interest in art and history, people looking for a pied-à-terre in the city, and expat families.

Which are your favourite places to eat and drink?
La Ménagère on Via de’ Ginori is perfect for a romantic dinner or a business breakfast. It has a garden, an emporium of wonderful things for sale and a library with more than 1,000 botanical-themed books. Another place with a great vibe is Il Santo Bevitore, an enoteca e gastronomia that focuses on Tuscan food and wine, sourced from local producers. I love Osteria dell’Enoteca on Via Romana, just across from the Giardino di Boboli. It’s an elegant space and the bistecca alla Fiorentina is incredible. And Bulli&Balene at Manifattura Tabacchi does amazing aperitivi.

Any cultural highlights that are off the beaten track?
Florence has so many wonderful churches with a fascinating history. San Miniato al Monte has astonishing views over the city and a beautiful marbled façade. Santo Spirito in Oltrarno contains a crucifix made by Michelangelo.

And the Corridoio Vasariano, a “secret passage” between Palazzo Pitti and Palazzo Vecchio, reopened in December 2024. The Medici used it to cross the Arno in safety – it must have many stories to tell. 

How’s the shopping?
There are artisans with tiny workshops all over the city: violin-makers, cobblers, stained-glass artists. One of my favourite shops is Pineider, a stationery and leather-goods maker that does understated travel bags and home accessories. Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is the world’s oldest pharmacy and a Florentine institution. It sells delightful perfumes and potions in its original home: a Dominican convent. Cassetti, on the Ponte Vecchio, is a master silversmith that has serviced the Vatican. And Mannina in Oltrarno has handmade shoes of extraordinary style.

What’s your favourite thing about Florence?
Living in the city centre, you feel part of something that’s been there for so many centuries. Every stone, every cornice, has such a rich history. And sharing that with all the people coming here from different cultures is a beautiful thing. Though it’s an ancient place, there’s always something new to discover. And there’s a real sense of community: you know your neighbours and have your favourite local shops and restaurants. It’s close to the countryside, too. Sometimes you’ll be on the terrace of a palazzo in downtown Florence and you can almost reach out and touch the hills with your hands – they’re that close. 

Portfolio recommends…
The Duomo, the Uffizi and the Accademia feature on every Florentine bucket list, but to enjoy spectacular city views without the crowds, head to the Giardino Bardini, southeast of charming Piazza Santo Spirito – it has a beautiful Baroque staircase and a pergola that overflows with purple wisteria blooms in spring. For palate-cleansing contemporary art after all the Renaissance riches, MAD – Murate Art District is an atmospheric museum in a former prison and convent, not far from the city’s oldest food market, Sant’Ambrogio. High-end Tuscan cuisine is on the menu at three-Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri, Trattoria Sostanza serves sumptuous Florentine T-bone steaks, and the cocktail list at the venerable Caffè Gilli celebrates a century of the negroni. Where Venice has its gondolas, Florence has its… paddleboards. Toscana SUP offers tours on the River Arno, passing under the Ponte Vecchio – sunset glass of chianti optional.

LUCA CERUTTI, TEAM DIRECTOR FLORENCE AND TUSCANY, RESIDENTIAL
luca.cerutti@savills.it