“When you eat at a farm-to-table restaurant, you know you’re doing something good,” says James Toogood, Savills director of the southwest region. “Eating seasonal fruits and vegetables and locally reared meat is the opposite of instant gratification. You can see the benefits in your local environment. I almost feel that we have a responsibility to do it where we can.”
Buying food straight from a farm once meant being handed bottles of creamy milk and crates of still-warm eggs over a wooden gate. Eating hyper-local produce today, though, is just as likely to involve being served a delicate sliver of line-caught bass topped with purple kohlrabi purée and lemon pepper leaf oil, or a sculpted boule of lacto-fermented squash and camomile sorbet, all grown within sight of the dining room window.
Far from being somewhere muddy to pick up a pot of jam or a bunch of beetroot as you drive through the countryside, many farms are now home to exceptional restaurants that are destinations in themselves. Crocadon, in St Mellion, Cornwall (where you might be served that bass and kohlrabi), opened in 2023 on a working farm that specialises in regenerative agriculture, and holds both a regular Michelin star and a green one.
Chef-owner Dan Cox describes it as a “soil-centric restaurant” where he serves a 10-course tasting menu made from ingredients raised and gathered on the farm or close by. For a similarly locavore Cornish gourmet experience, Coombeshead Farm in Lewannick, run by Tom Adams – formerly of Pitt Cue in London – is a gastronomic delight.