Insider’s Guide to Milan, Italy

What makes Milan such a great place to live?
Milan is a mix of huge ambition and the classic Italian dolce vita. Expo 2015 changed everything – we became an international city, with a real transformation in quality of life: we saw new buildings, modern parks, and it became much more bike- and pedestrian-friendly.

What kinds of property can you find?
Tortona is a hub for creative types, while Isola, an ancient area that has been newly redeveloped, is hot right now – buyers are drawn by its exceptional modern architecture. You can find historic buildings housing elegant apartments in Brera, and penthouses within high-tech towers in CityLife and Porta Nuova. Magenta is the home of the old-school Milanese and if you’re looking for a villa, there are excellent examples around here with gardens.

Occasionally in the historic centre you can find tiny new-build houses, maybe 2,000 square metres, or huge apartments where two or three different flats have been knocked together to create a unique space. Sometimes, if a client wants more greenery, we’ll suggest that they buy a larger villa on Lago di Como or Maggiore, or perhaps in Brianza, a residential area close to the city. They can combine this with a pied-à-terre in Milan that they can use when they go to the opera at La Scala, for example.

Who’s buying in Milan, and why?
There are those who want to invest in Milan, international buyers coming for the flat tax, plus some robust domestic activity, which makes up 80%-85% of the market. Among foreign clients there’s high demand for apartments in historic palazzi – particularly those with private courtyards, which offer a sanctuary of silence away from the city’s bustle, and reflect the secret luxury of Milan’s introverted architecture. They provide a unique blend of historical prestige and exclusive community, concentrated in the historic Cinque Vie and Magenta districts, the artistic streets of Brera and the Quadrilatero del Silenzio around the Piazza Eleonora Duse. 

Which are your favourite places to eat and drink?
Brera is good for an aperitivo – it’s very atmospheric. But for an apero with a view, Terrazza Martini, at the top of the Piazza Diaz skyscraper near the Duomo, is incredible. Or there’s the Roof Milano bar, part of the Dei Cavalieri collection, which looks out onto the basilica of Sant’Alessandro in Zebedia and across to the Alps. There are great bars in the Navigli that are young and trendy. Antica Trattoria della Pesa is an iconic place to eat risotto or cotoletta alla milanese, while Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone is very high fashion and offers a slice of local history – it’s been there forever. And Langosteria on Via Savona is cosmopolitan, with great fish and seafood.

For sweet things, try the pasticceria Marchesi 1824, which is now owned by Prada – there’s one in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and another in Via Monte Napoleone, in the Quadrilatero della Moda, that’s a wonderful place for coffee and a sweet treat.

What’s the shopping like?
The Quadrilatero della Moda is the beating heart of Milanese luxury. This is where you will find the world’s most prestigious boutiques, from Armani to Prada, alongside grand jewellery houses and high-end watch salons such as Pisa 1940. Brera is Milan’s artistic hub, offering a quiet luxury alternative to the Quadrilatero – Antonia has wonderful shoes, Robertaebasta iconic decorative arts and design. Cinque Vie, meanwhile, gives you exclusive artisan workshops and niche concept stores, such as the brilliant boutique Wait and See.

What is there to do for culture?
Apart from the big cultural draws such as the Duomo, La Scala, the museums of the Castello Sforzesco and the Museo del Novecento, for those who haven’t been lucky enough to see it I would book a slot for da Vinci’s Last Supper in the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie – it’s such an arresting piece. The Pinacoteca di Brera is a glorious gallery, with works by Mantegna, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. The Triennale is a brilliant exhibition space and the Pirelli HangarBicocca, on the edge of the city, hosts events around Fashion Week and Salone, Milan’s design festival.

What’s your favourite thing to do in Milan?
I love to walk around the city: the green space of Parco Sempione is one of my favourite places. And the Quadrilatero della Moda is very interesting for people watching. I like visiting churches. There are some incredible examples in Milan, but you have to seek them out. Sant’Eustorgio was an important stop for pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land: it was said to contain the tomb of the Three Kings. And the tiny chapel of San Satiro has a superb trompe l’oeil apse. This city is full of culture – you just have to be curious. Throw away your guidebook and simply walk.

CLAUDIO CASALI
DIRECTOR OF MILAN RESIDENTIAL, SAVILLS ITALY
claudio.casali@savills.it